The STARTT 3D Printer by iMakr is a miniature Prusa i3 clone that is made by the TronXY company. It is just a re-branded TronXY XY-100 printer. You can purchase it for $115 with shipping to the US. Official iMakr Link:

The printer has a 120x140x130mm build volume and comes with an E3D V5 type clone hotend. It has a bowden setup on it by default and it is lightweight. The stock carriage is made out of laser cut acrylic and is mounted with 2 LM8UU bearings in aluminum blocks. The main board is a standard Melzi V2 board. You can flash Marlin on this board using SkyNet firmware since the Anet A8 board is just a modified Melzi board and it’s pinouts are the same. There is NO heated bed so you are limited to printing with PLA on this machine. The stock board does support a heated bed output and thermistor so one can be added down the road with some modification.

Overall for the price the parts are good quality and it is a great entry point for 3D printing if you are wanting to learn how to build a kit printer. The main downside is that if you want to go to a RAMPS type board on this printer you will not be able to use the Stock LCD 2004 display as it is wired as a Melzi type and will only work with Melzi type boards (including the Anet A8 board). The LCD is also a proprietary size to accommodate the small printer frame so a standard RepRap type LCD 2004 display will not fit without modification to the PCB.

Modifications and Upgrades

There are a few modifications that you can do to the printer from expanding the print area and adding a heated bed. Below are custom mounts and guides for upgrading the printer. If you need help with upgrading the printer I offer remote support for 3D Printers with reasonable hourly rates.


This firmware is my PERSONAL build of the 2.3.2 version of SkyNet firmware. I am providing this as an example for those of you looking to load Skynet/Marlin on your STARTT or TronXY XY-100. The following changes were made:

  • Pin 27 re-mapped to ATX PSU Control – This goes to the LCD header on Pin A4 for PS_ON
    • You MUST break this wire out of the ribbon cable. You will see the LED on the board turn ON when the PSU is off and the led will be OFF when the PSU is on. If you do not use this feature set the PSU control to 0 instead of 1.
  • Build Area is set to 150mmX150mmX130mm with a 0 offset for X and Y
    • You will need to figure out your own offsets for your parcitular carriage and setup
  • Auto Bed Leveling is set to 15mm from the edge of my 150mm bed size
  • Printer Name is changed to HakSTARTT

Again this is provided AS-IS and I will not be responding to emails regarding it. Do NOT download this if you do not know what you are doing with the Marlin/SkyNet firmware.

Printable Files

STARTT E3D V6 Compact Mount with 18mm Sensor

STARTT/TronXY XY-100 6″ Heated Bed Adapter Plate

TRONXY-xy100 STARTT Upgrades by JueWei

STARTT TronXY XY-100 X Carriage for 4 Bolt Prusa Mounts – Use with STOCK Idlers

STARTT TronXY Stock X Idlers

STARTT Y Tensioner for use with 3mm ID 16T Sized Idler

STARTT Custom Anet/Prusa Style X Idlers – Standard Prusa 45mm Rod Spacing

Print Area Expansion

A user by the name of JueWei has posted detailed information about expanding the print area on this printer to a print size of up to 155mmX160mm from the standard 120mmX140mm.

The way this is achieved is by printing an adjustable Y endstop mount, lower profile Y idlers mounts, and new endcaps for the Y rods that allow you to use 10mm M3 screws instead of the 20mm ones. These 2 modifications allow the stock print carriage more motion in both directions on the Y axis so that you can put a larger bed (glass is the easiest) on the stock print bed. You can also print the new bed if you have a larger printer. I recommend printing it in ABS as it will hold up to the heat far better. If you print the bed I recommend applying a sheet of buildtak to the top OR a sheet of glass to make it more rigid.

I mirrored the files in case it is pulled from the Thingiverse page. You can also find it on GitHub here:

If you cannot print the larger parts I can print them and mail them to anywhere in the US for a flat fee of $35USD. They will be printed in ABS. I accept PayPal (Gift), Chase QuickPay, Square Cash, and Google Wallet for payment. You can use the contact form to get in touch with me to order these printed parts. The $35 is for time and materials, not for the designs themselves.

Heated Bed Upgrade

You can easily add the heated bed to this printer AND expand the print area. To do so you will need to perform the upgrades above before proceeding.

The way that I added the heated bed was by purchasing a 6″ x 6″ Heated PCB (US eBay Link), printing a new mount, and then wiring everything to the stock Melzi board. From the firmware side of things you will need to modify the Configuration.h file from the SkyNet firmware. I used 150mmX150mmX130mm for my new build height to allow for some play in the bed.

If you use this adapter plate you should use an autolevel sensor on your hotend. On my particular setup I am using an E3D V6 hotend with an 18mm capacitive sensor to sense the bed. This works very well and has high repeat-ability.

The mount STL file is available here and is NOT permitted for re-distribution or commercial use by anyone but myself. It MUST be downloaded from here. If you want one printed in ABS it is available for $15 shipped, use the contact form to request one. I currently only ship to the US right now.


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This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

The process for installing the new heated bed mount (at least the one I used) was the following:

  1. Countersink the screw holes to the size screw heads you are using
  2. Put 4x M3X25mm screws through the newly drilled holes
  3. Kapton tape was put over the screw heads to prevent shorting the PCB traces
  4. Soldered 14 gauge wire to the heated pcb pads
  5. Applied 1CM width kapton tape around the edge of the heated PCB (50% on, 50% off)
  6. I placed the heated PCB on top of the adapter and then wrapped the Kapton tape around to the backside of the adapter plate
  7. I placed the thermistor in the hole and then secured it with kapton tape
  8. I insulated the entire bottom of the adapter plate with aluminum foil tape
  9. Secured the new assembly to the stock Y carriage with the included thumb screws
  10. Wires were wrapped in the stock printer sleeving and secured to the back of the LCD allowing proper movement without straining the wires.
Finished Bed Mount